Historic and Haunted: Port Townsend WA

How a weekend getaway turned into a real life ghost story.

CHAPTER ONE - ARRIVAL

It was not a dark and stormy night.

In fact, it was the longest day of the year, and I had taken a Summer Solstice jaunt to the historic seaside town of Port Townsend, staying in what appeared to be a charming Victorian hotel on the main drag.

The Palace Hotel
(photo credit: The Palace Hotel)

After a 4 1/2 hour drive, I walked into the main lobby of The Palace Hotel – sun blazing a trail in the late summer afternoon sky, and immediately asked the front desk clerk (Bob), “Are you going to tell me this hotel is haunted?”

And why did I blurt out this odd question? Because the main lobby had a strange kind of filmy feeling – as if a layer of gauze or a veil was laid over it.

Before I continue, I must digress. I have stayed in numerous “historic” B&B’s by myself, both here and abroad. I have also been in countless older homes for my job at Rejuvenation – and I have never encountered a place quite like this.

OK, now back to the story.

In regards to my question, Bob gives a nervous chuckle and tells me the hotel “does have an interesting past” (seaport brothel). In a half-hearted attempt at transparency, he offers me the hotel’s “binder” which contains guest reviews.

For reasons I can’t fully explain (the reoccurring theme of the weekend) I tell Bob I’m not up for the binder, and that I’d prefer to remain objective. Bob then asks if I’d mind paying up front. And again, for reasons I can’t fully explain, I tentatively hand over my credit card and commit to my stay at The Palace Hotel.

CHAPTER TWO – SETTLING IN

I follow Bob as he scurries up the main staircase which is presided over by a large portrait – “The Lady in Blue” – and plants my small suitcase in Room 4, Miss Claire’s room.

The Lady in Blue
a.k.a Miss Claire
(photo credit: KOMO News)

Despite its tawdry past, Miss Claire’s room is airy and bright. I enter, but immediately freeze in my tracks. The vibe overwhelms me. It feels like something is in the room – but I can’t see it. More specifically, it feels like a patch of sad energy gently hovering overhead – kind of like an invisible, clinically-depressed blimp.

My first instinct is to bolt, but after a few minutes of self-talk (there is NOTHING WRONG with this room, Laurie) I decide to stay. To get the weekend off to the right start, I send “the presence” a telepathic greeting (no joke). Something to the effect of “Hey Miss Claire, you seem kind of down, and I’m sorry about that, and I know this is your room, and I’ll be a really good roommate." I hit the telepathic “send” button and start to unpack.

Usually, for work purposes, I would take pictures in a historic hotel, but I decide not to use my camera (or for that matter, turn on the TV), fearing the camera flash or electronic devices might trigger a paranormal event. (Again, no joke.)

And now, I am truly beginning to grasp the Victorian concept of “going mad."

“Shake it off,” I tell myself. I pull myself back from the brink, buck up and head out to dinner. After a lovely meal and a healthy dose of wine at The Silverwater Café, I head back to Room 4. With the table lamp on, I go to sleep. Thankfully, the night is uneventful.

CHAPTER THREE - THINGS GET A LITTLE LIVELY

Saturday morning arrives, and summer light floods the room early. “How ironic,” I think, “my own little version of The Shining.” I get up and do a gut-check on the room. I feel Miss Claire is not present. Perhaps she’s out running errands. (Do ghosts run errands?)

Room 4, Miss Claire's boudoir
(photo credit: The Palace Hotel)

I head out for a day of sightseeing, and make sure to leave the room extra tidy, thinking that if Miss Claire moves anything while I’m out, I’ll be able to tell. I return later that afternoon after an invigorating bike ride to Fort Worden. The room feels normal. I breathe a sigh of relief and relax, and start to get ready to go out for an early dinner. Although at this point, I'm trying my best to apply makeup while NOT looking in the mirror, since I know from childhood slumber parties that mirrors and apparitions go hand-in-hand. (Mary Worth, are you listening?)

And wouldn’t you know! While primping, the closed door to my room pops open – in that scary movie kind of way – creaky sound effect and all. “Hmmmm,” I think to myself, “pretty sure that was closed.” I shrug it off and attribute it to an old building with old locks. I continue to blindly apply mascara, when suddenly, I feel something behind me.

So now I break out in goose bumps, quickly brush my hair and leave. “She’s back,” I think, “so I’ll just let her have the room to herself for a few hours.”

I fear I am starting to lose it.

Dinner is another lovely meal at the The Silverwater Café washed down with two very large glasses of wine. After taking in some live music and knocking back another stiff drink, I feel fortified and ready to return to Miss Claire’s room. “One more night,” I say to myself.

It’s still twilight when I return, but I decide to turn in early. I switch on the table lamp, get into bed, pull the covers over my head, and hope for the best. I drift off.

Fast forward a few hours. I’m sound asleep – that is, until the locked door once again mysteriously pops open. I sit bolt upright in bed and say loudly, “Hello? Hello?” No answer. I walk to the open door and look out into the still-lit hall. I see nothing.

And then I have a funny thought – an epiphany of sorts. I realize that I don’t really WANT to see anything. I’m tired of this ghost stuff, and I am now more annoyed with than scared of Miss Claire. She reminds me of so many roommates from days past, stumbling in late on a Saturday night, probably a little tipsy, but meaning no harm.

At least she didn’t bring home a guy.

EPILOGUE

Sunday morning arrives – bright and sunny! My first thought of the day is, “I’m getting the hell out of here.” I skip the shower (no more creepy bathroom for me), quickly pack up, and say good-bye to Miss Claire. This time I speak out loud for I am no longer in denial about her existence.

But before I go, I do review “the binder” which is chock full of experiences similar to mine – and then some. I also learn legend has it Miss Claire was engaged to be married, but was jilted by a sailor who left her at the dock. Her never-used wedding gown was stashed in a trunk found in Room 4.

I hit the road. By the time I’m in Tacoma, I realize I've spent the weekend with a broken-hearted ghost, and have a full-blown case of the heebie-jeebies. For closure, I call Front Desk Bob when I get home and tell him my tale. Bob confirms that my story is “consistent with other events” at the hotel. I guess that’s paranormal-speak for this stuff goes on all the time.

As for me, I still sleep with a light on.

The Palace Hotel
1004 Water Street
Port Townsend, WA 98368

Gettin' Crabby: Netarts OR

With crabbing, like most things in life, timing matters. And there is some truth to the saying that crabbing is best during the months that end in “er”. My first outing was in September, and was pretty successful (several mature crabs for the taking) while my second outing in June was a little disappointing (fewer mature crabs for the taking). Something to keep in mind.

My gang’s favorite place to crab is Netarts, a charming little seaside town on Oregon's north coast. We’re big fans of Big Spruce RV Park and Boat Rental, where you can rent a nifty aluminum boat and crab cages complete with bait (frozen raw chicken and raw fish). You also get a special crab “ruler” which helps you determine which crabs are large enough to keep.

Catch of the day

Crabbing was pleasingly straightforward in a physical sort of way. First, we fastened slimy frozen bait to the bottom of the cages, putted around the bay, hurled the cages overboard at staggered intervals, and let them sit for about 20 minutes. Then, we pulled the cages back in. And that’s when the real fun began.

Squirming, snapping crustaceans had clambered into the netted cages, and much squealing and swearing ensued as we measured the “keepers” – large males – and tossed back females and babies– all the while trying not to get pinched by agitated crabs hanging onto the cages for dear life. We found ourselves swinging between the thrill of the hunt and feeling bad for the little critters. At one point, I asked a fellow crew member (who happens to be a doctor) if crabs had feelings. She paused, then answered thoughtfully, “Well, I think it’s more like they have sensations”. Somehow, this made us all feel a better - as if we weren’t causing them “real" pain.

After our exhilarating expedition, we headed back to land with our haul, where the friendly and helpful folks at Big Spruce cleaned our crabs, explained the difference between Dungeness and Rock crabs, then sent us happily on our way with our catch.

Crabbing Tips:
• Go during an "er" month
• Call ahead and reserve your boat. Boats go fast during peak months. (Crabbing is contingent on the tides, so you just can’t show up whenever.)
• Wear quick dry clothing. You will get wet.
• Wear shoes with traction. (Keens are ideal). All that water and bait juice (eewwww!) makes for a slippery boat, and you’ll need a good grip when you haul in your catch.
• Bring a change of clothes – especially shoes.
• Bring an ice chest to transport your crabs to their final destination.

Sweet Nostalgia - Joseph's Bakery: San Pedro CA

Tucked away on a quiet side street in San Pedro, California, is Joseph’s Bakery, and it is truly a retro gem. Stocked with baked goodies, it's been in business 43 years and boasts a vintage cash register that rings in at 55 years. Ka-chiiinngg!

This ain't no Starbucks

My sister and brother-in-law live nearby, and after a neighborhood stroll we were up for a little nosh. Sis suggested we skip the nearby Starbucks with the 180 degree ocean view (they have those down there) and hit the bakery. And I'm glad we did. No de-caf soy vanilla lattes for us! Instead, we got a few slices of pizza, a couple of lemon bars and a brownie. All were tasty – but for me, the real draw was the place itself. So next time you’re in San Pedro, take a carbo-loaded, sugar-coated step back in time and check out Joseph’s Bakery.

Joseph's Bakery
1027 South Meyler Street
San Pedro, CA 90731

Ghost Town Bound: Los Cerrillos NM

Back in February 2009 I visited Santa Fe, New Mexico for the first time. It really does live up to the brochure – brilliant blue skies, fabulous historic buildings and dramatic interplay of shadow and light. But after a couple of days of wandering through the main plaza area ogling fine art and hulking pieces of turquoise jewelry, I tired of $25,000 price tags. I suspected there must be more to this Southwest story. So, for those of you whose net worth is less than several million, I suggest heading out of town.

Main Street, Los Cerrillos, NM

To explore the surrounding environs, I contacted Santa Fe Walkabouts, a husband-and-wife run company specializing in day tours. I expressed to my trusty guide Sue that I wanted to experience something a little less chi-chi than Santa Fe proper. She had the perfect suggestion. After a lovely afternoon hike in the Cerrillos Hills, we stopped in the ghost town of Los Cerrrilos. This is a special place, and an impressive example of an authentic western town, one that would make Clint Eastwood sit tall in the saddle and take squinty-eyed notice. I had the good fortune of being there on a day when no one was there, so I got the full-ghost town hit.

Thanks again to Sue for this insightful suggestion and rewarding field trip.

Earthly Delights - Quail Botanical Gardens: Encinitas CA

OK, I admit - sometimes botanical gardens can make my eyes glaze over after the third Latin plant name. (Dead language for live things? Go figure.) Latin terms aside, I do find these gardens great for a stroll, and Quail Botanical Gardens (a.k.a. San Diego Botanic Garden) seemed pleasing enough with its variety of exotic plants and impressive collection of bamboo species. A couple of things in particular set this one apart from other botanical gardens, and make this diversion visit-worthy.

Mary Jane's tiki snack bar

For starters, a cheery coffee/snack bar-meets-tiki hut greets you when you enter. Mary Jane, the sole proprietor, explained that she bought the business after she bailed out on twenty years of corporate life. (Right on, sister!) After a nice chat over a decaf latte, I entered the grounds.

Again, lots of interesting plants. But the real show stopper was the life-size topiary mariachi band, which was charming in a creepy, Edward Scissor Hands sort of way. (Apparently, the face masks were molded on the artists who designed the figures.) In addition to the mariachis, there’s also a foliage-covered waltzing couple and prancing woman. A garden party in the truest sense of the word.

Topiary meets mariachis

If you’re into pushing the plant envelope, or just like odd things, these figures alone are worth the price of admission.

San Diego (a.k.a Quail) Botanic Garden
230 Quail Gardens Drive
Encinitas, CA 92024

Village by the Sea: Carlsbad CA

Unlike many So Cal coastal destinations, Carlsbad is surprisingly low key and has a homey, almost retro feel – like someplace out of Sunset Magazine circa 1964. The beaches are clean, and there’s a nice mix of shops and restaurants.

Statuary lines up at El Corral Pottery

El Corral Pottery caught my eye for it’s fun display of fountains, statuary and colorful ceramics (Fiesta Ware fans take note). This business has been around since 1947 – and feels like it in a good way. I’m sure many a post-war So Cal mom stocked up here on tableware and patio décor. And although the store has lots of merchandise, its not overflowing with stuff. It’s almost like the selection has been lightly edited so you can really see and appreciate the items.

Waitress Christine standing by

Up the street from the pottery place is long-time Carlsbad establishment, The Armenian Café. Here I enjoyed lamb souvlaki on their deck complete with an ocean view, and the quaint setting and friendly staff helped take the edge off of the touristy prices.

And there’s one more charming touch - when you leave, there’s a bell you can ring that let’s other diners know you enjoyed your meal. My lamb souvlaki was a bell ringer so I gladly complied.

El Corral Pottery
3040 Carlsbad Boulevard
Carlsbad, CA 92008

The Armenian Cafe
3126 Carlsbad Boulevard
Carlsbad, CA 92008

Mission Accomplished: San Juan Capistrano CA

Ever since the successful completion of my fourth grade diorama project (depicting candle making on a rancho), I’ve had an affinity for California missions. And although I haven’t been to them all, I’ve been to several, most recently San Juan Capistrano.

Let me tell you - this is one upscale mission. It’s well-groomed and well-funded (not unlike the surrounding Orange County residents). The church is gorgeous and glittery. The lovely grounds are criss-crossed by rustic paths lined with roses, marigolds and lavender. There’s also an impressive fountain, a koi pond and some very striking cactus.

However, I found the mission’s most impressive feature to be the ruins of the original church, destroyed by an earthquake in 1812. Wow! World-class ruins in Orange County. Who knew? Prior to visiting, my idea of So Cal ruins was more along the lines of an empty Tower Records store.

So, is Mission San Juan Capistrano worth checking out? Yes. I suggest hitting it on a weekday and arriving early. That way, you can stroll in peace and get your “Old California” hit (albeit a pristine one) before the crowd arrives.

Mission San Juan Capistrano
26801 Ortega Hwy
San Juan Capistrano, CA 92675